I was inspired to do this expedition after seeing photos posted by two sets of friends who recently visited Japan. My first stop was Pacific East Mall. Not strictly Japanese, it houses restaurants, shops and businesses from many Asian countries.
I admired the “My Neighbor Totoro” stuffies in the window of Kingstone Books along with the Smiski display. According to their website, Smiskis “are curious little creatures that love hiding in small spaces and corners of your room.” I got one at a Christmas gift exchange and it has grown on me!
There are several claw machines where you can try to get yourself, in this case, a demonic looking bunny. The mall has an entire room of machines but it was closed (these employees are either troubleshooting this game or playing off the clock). These are popular all over Asia and I saw tons of them in Japan. Not just claw machines but other types of vending machines. Entire storefronts full of them. Half a dozen in a post office.
Apparently, claw machines were inspired by the enormous steam shovels used in the early 1900’s to build the Panama Canal! I would never have guessed that. In Japan they’re called UFO catchers. All the websites I consulted said it’s because they look like UFO’s. What now??
The other mainly Japanese shop, The Candy Box, wasn’t open but it was easy to see their wares, including specialty flavors of Kit Kat bars. Behind the moveable racks are bins of candy.
Next I stopped at Yaoya-San, a humble Japanese grocery store in El Cerrito. This is my favorite onigiri shop because they sell the plain, lightly salted rice variety, which is how I found it in Japan. Other stores sell it with sushi rice (with vinegar and other seasonings) and it just doesn’t float my boat. They mostly sell out by the afternoon. There’s other bento, a typical selection of cake slices and some kawaii toothbrushes.
Down the street is Berkeley fixture Tokyo Fish, with its bustling, quite varied fish market, along with other Japanese grocery staples. A few more blocks south is Hida Tools, another Berkeley fixture since 1984, with a goofy mural of bears sawing trees. Its aesthetic is utilitarian but also warm. I like all the wood shelves and cardboard boxes, the art and photos on the walls.
In Japan I saw many shops and restaurants that were modest and slightly run down, but extremely tidy and clean. I feel like here in the US, things are either run down, neglected and dirty or sleek, modern and clean. Wabi sabi is not quite the term I’m looking for, but I found it captivating.
Topdrawer on Fourth Street, by contrast, is quite high end. It sells simple and lovely handkerchiefs, notebooks with beautiful paper, pens, water color supplies and cloth slippers. Around the shop are charming “skill cards” with instructions on how to use their wares. They reminded me a bit the old J Peterman catalog. Other cards are about top analog tools to have and how to write a love letter.
My next stop was Umami Mart, a women owned business selling high quality Japanese goods with a sake bar in the back. I was tempted by this Bambi sake that comes in a reusable glass! The funny ceramic ghosts aren’t Japanese but their Danish designer was inspired by living in Japan. He also designed the store, which is lovely.
Time to eat! Last stop was Ebiko, a take out sushi shop on Piedmont Avenue. Got a very generous tray of seared salmon nigiri that was fantastic and cheap considering the quality. They have the usual Japanese drinks, including the fairly awful canned coffees. 🙂
